How does it work?

Eco-printing is sometimes called botanical printing, eco-dyeing, bundle-dyeing or steam bundling. Whatever you call it, it is the process of wrapping & steaming plant material onto fabric to create various beautiful patterns & prints. To eco-print, place the dye material on the fabric, fold and wrap it around a pole or tie it in a bundle & add heat. Next, you steam or submerge it in water. The heat, in combination with the mordant used, causes the colour to release & imprint the pigments on the fabric. In the process, the colours and shapes of the plant material directly transfer onto the fibre. This is commonly done with flowers, leaves, bark, branches & seeds.

A process with mixed results

As with the origins of natural dyes, very little is known about the beginnings of eco-printing. Mentions of the process appear in texts dating back to the Middle Ages. The great Leonardo Da Vinci described his techniques for imprinting a sage leaf onto cloth.

Many students have shared their disappointment in trying this technique, and my first few attempts weren’t great. Don’t lose hope if you’ve tried this and it hasn’t worked out! After experimenting with many different techniques and methods, I have landed on a few simple considerations that consistently produce beautiful prints.

How to get the best results

This technique works best with animal fibres such as silk or wool, although I’ve had some decent results on lightweight linen. You must thoroughly scour and mordant your fabric to achieve the most vibrant colours from your dye plants. Some dyers have great results with seeds, bark & leaves; I stick to flower petals, dye powder & leaves or herbs rich in oils. I find this gives me clearer, more defined results. Here are a few important considerations to keep in mind;

• Scour & mordant your fabric.
• Stick to dye sources known to be successful (see the list below).
• Experiment with steaming your bundles instead of submerging them in water.

What plants work best for eco-printing?

My favourite flowers to work with are marigolds & coreopsis. Additionally, I’ve had strong results from madder, cochineal, fresh turmeric and cutch.

Here is a list of successful dye plants to use in your experiments:

• Scabiosa
• Coreopsis
• Marigold
• Goldenrod
• Dyer’s Chamomile
• Hopi Red Amaranth

Eco-printing uses no chemicals, making it a far more environmentally friendly way to imprint colour and patterns onto fabric. The process is relaxing and very satisfying. Untying your bundles after waiting patiently for them to steam is like opening a beautiful present on your birthday!

What fabric works best for eco-printing?

Animal fibres like silk and wool give the best results, since their protein structure holds pigment more readily than plant fibres. Lightweight linen can work too, though results are less consistent. For the most reliable prints, use scoured, mordanted 100% silk.

Want to learn more?

Eco-printing and steam bundling are covered as a bonus tutorial inside The Complete Natural Dye Course, along with the full foundations of natural dyeing, from your first dye bath through to advanced techniques. Explore the course →

Kathryn x